Monday, 1 November 2010

Prague

Some people think hostels are dirty, crowded, run down shit holes. These people deserve to miss out on having a swimming pool, sauna and bar for under £10 a night. This is what you get at Plus Prague. Just a 5 minute walk away from Nádraží Holešovic metro station, it takes a total of 15 minutes to get to the centre of Prague. However the breakfast isn't free and you can get more, better food by waiting until you get to the metro station and visiting Mr Baker, a wide variety of delicious baked goods, mostly for under £1 each, also home to Andy's Pizza for slices under £1. Any bakery in Eastern Europe is well worth a visit, I recommend one of everything.

In the shopping district there are plenty of sausage stands with big, awesome sausages and mulled wine. Mulled wine is available all over town, the best is at the entrance to the vineyard by Prague Castle. Potrefena Husa has cheap Czech food in massive portions.

I believe walking is the best way to see a city. Prague is a perfect walking city. Stick to the main roads and it's easy to see all the main attractions, wander off through the side streets to find traditional goulash, little local bars and interesting shops. If you want a guided tour, I have always found New Europe tours an enjoyable way to spend an afternoon. Although these tours are 'free', the guides are actually charged around 3 euros for each person who starts the tour, so please give them at least 5 euros, in my experience it's more than worth it.

From the old town, cross the spectacular (and spectacularly crowded!) Charles Bridge with it's 30 statues and countless tourist trap souvenir stands (although there are a couple of jewellery stands worth checking out), and start the climb to Prague Castle. I found the Old Castle steps a much easier ascent. The view from the top is well worth the effort, it's the best view of Prague for free. In the middle of the castle grounds is the stunning St Vitus's Cathedral. You can't buy tickets for just entrance cathedral, but must buy a combination ticket which gives you access to the Basilica and other parts of the castle. Unless you are on a very tight budget, do it! Among the highlights are stained glass windows by Alfons Mucha in the cathedral.

Of course, one of the best things about this part of the world is the quality of beer available for prices so small, it would be an insult not to over-indulge. The best place for this is Zly Casy - 24 beers on tap, constanting changing, features many you won't find anywhere else and also has tasty cheap snacks. For something a bit different try BED - just off the main square, does exactly what it says on the tin. Instead of chairs, there's beds, but no shoes on the furniture, please. Live music is never far away. Depending on the night, Matrix is good for Heavy Metal or Drum and Bass. Cross Club has a mix of music in some of the coolest club rooms you will ever see. Seats from buses, trams and trains, fans made form car window wipers, turning engines hanging from the ceiling and and entrance made from exhausts and vehicular bits and bobs. Warning: Keep your bags in your sight, unfortunately there's not much in the way of security here, which can ruin a great night and interesting club.

Kutna Hora - lots of bones
One must-do day out is Kutna Hora. You can choose to go with an organised tour, or pay a small fraction of the price to get the frequent train and explore the small town yourself. It's a short walk to the Ossuary (bone chapel) which is decorated with the bones of around 70,000 people (and one bird). Skulls are arranged in 4 huge pyramids, while in the centre is a chandelier that utilises every bone in the human body. A walk through town will take you to St Barbara's church. Outside is a great view overlooking the town, inside are huge murals, great architecture and an amazing organ.

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